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、先秦——中国服装史的发祥期 距今25000年前的北京山顶洞人时期,正是中国服装史的发祥期,这时人们已用骨针缝制兽皮的衣服,并用兽牙、骨管、石珠等做成串饰进行装扮。山顶洞出土了一枚磨得很细长的骨针,这是缝制兽皮衣服的工具,缝线可是用动物韧带劈开的丝筋。山顶洞人佩戴装饰品的穿孔,几乎都带有红色,似乎他们的穿戴是用赤铁矿研磨的红色粉末染过的。山顶洞人不仅关心生活的美,而且也表现了对死者的关怀,他们把死去的亲人加以埋葬并举行仪式,还在死者身边撒下红色赤铁矿粉末。红色在原始人意识中是血液的象征,失去血液便失去生命,使用红色有祈求再生之意,说明原始人的色彩观念是和原始宗教观念交织在一起的。 服饰之礼是先秦时代重要的礼仪,这种建立在宗法礼制基础上的服饰之礼,表现出了独特的审美特性。商周时,北方的许多地方已经成为丝织业的中心,已有了华美的提花绸和多彩的刺绣。其服装审美趣味,主要表现在奴隶主、王侯、贵族对服装面料和色彩的选择,以及衣服边缘部位(领口、袖口、襟、摆)的装饰上,即“衣作绣,锦为缘”。相比较而言,当时除了上衣、衤夸和下裳外,佩件装饰还不及后来春秋战国时代讲究,有研究者甚至认为,夏、商、周三代,基本上男女同服。 先秦服饰是中国服饰历史的奠基阶段,中国服装的基本形制均在此期间逐步走向成熟。 据史书记载,黄帝尧舜时期已出现了衣裳,结束了史前的围披状态,人们按照这种衣裳式样穿着,有秩序的拜祖先,祭天地,从而实现天下治。《周礼》中“享先王则兖冕”表明祭祀大礼时,帝王百官皆穿礼服。当时有官任“司礼”者,专门掌管服制实施,安排帝王穿着,说明自周朝起,冠服制度已经完备。 2、先秦具有代表性的民族服饰介绍 在纺织技术尚未发明之前,动物的毛皮是人们服装的主要材料。当时还没有绳、线,可能用动物韧带来缝制衣服。在山顶洞人的遗址及其它古墓里,层发掘出大量的装饰物,其中有头饰、颈饰和腕饰等,材料有天然美石、兽齿鱼骨和海里的贝壳等,当时佩戴这些饰物,可能不仅是为了装饰,也许还包含着对渔猎胜利的纪念。 商周时期的织物颜色,以暖色为多,尤其以黄红为主,间有棕色和褐色,但并不等于不存在篮、绿等冷色。只是以朱砂和石黄制成的红黄二色,比其他颜色更鲜艳,渗透力也较强,所以经久不变并一直保存至今。经现代科技分析,商周时期的染织方法往往染绘并用,尤其是红、黄等正色,常在织物织好之后,再用画笔添绘。 周代服饰大致沿袭商代的服制,只是略有变化。衣服的样式比商代略宽松。衣袖有大小两式,领子通用矩领。这个时期的服装还没有扭扣,一般在腰间系带,有的在带上还挂有玉制的饰物。当时的腰带主要有两种:一种以丝织物制成,叫“大带” 。另一种腰带以皮革制成,叫“革带”。 战国中期的服饰有绢、罗、锦、纱、绦等各种衣着。从实物来看,锦袍和禅衣样式基本相同,即前身、后身及两袖各为一片,每片宽度与衣料本身的幅度大体相等。右衽、交领、直裾。衣身、袖子及下摆等部位均平直。领、袖、襟、裾均有一道缘边,袖端缘边较为奇特,通常用两种颜色的彩条纹锦镶沿。 http://book.kongfz.com/bs_photo/4675/1208302737_1_b.jpg
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